Mahindra Homestays

Mahindra Homestays is a booking service for homestays throughout India. It isn’t independent, but it is a useful way to find homestays, with plenty listed in Kerala. The photos and descriptions for each homestay are quite detailed and some have reviews by guests.

Each homestay is inspected to ensure that it complies with the high standards of Mahindra Homestays, including comfort, cleanliness, safety and originality. You can book your stay on the website or by phone.

Recommended for those looking for a homestay who would like the security of an advance booking.

Couchsurfing

This is an interesting and cheap option for adventurous travellers. Couchsurfing is a huge hospitality network where hosts from around the world allow travellers to stay on their couches or in their spare rooms for free.

There are  hundreds of hosts registered in Kerala, and this is an amazing way to get to know local people and see the ‘real’ Kerala.  Even if you don’t want to stay with the hosts you can arrange to meet them while you are in Kerala for a chance to meet locals and make new friends.

Many people are worried about the security of couchsurfing, but over 4 million positive experiences have been registered, which is an incredible 99.794% success rate. If you are still worried you can choose to only stay with hosts that have been verified and have positive references from other couchsurfers.

There are some amazing couchsurfing hosts in Kerala, including the chance to stay in an eco-friendly hut on a coffee plantation  in Wayanad, or with an Ayurvedic doctor on the beach in Kannur.

Recommended for adventurous travellers and those on a budget looking for a unique Keralan experience.

Twitter

Twitter is a social networking site where members post short (140 character) messages. There is a great travel community on Twitter who you can ask for hotel recommendations, or you can  search to find out what people are saying about a particular hotel.

Almost Fearless has published a useful ebook called Twitter for Travellers which features great advice on using Twitter to find travel tips. There’s even a cheat sheet on how to set up a Twitter account for those just starting out.

I posted a question on Twitter asking how people found great accommodation. @Monica530 pointed me to her Travel Secrets article where she recommends not booking hotels in advance so that you can negotiate cheaper prices.

Recommended for travellers who already use Twitter, or those who’d like to learn.

Guidebook

The most traditional way to find accommodation is with a guidebook. You’ll have plenty of reliable listings in one portable package. The downside is that thousands of other travellers will be using the same guide, so these options can get crowded.

For pros and cons of each of the major Kerala and India guidebooks you can read my reviews of The Rough Guide to Kerala , Lonely Planet India and Lonely Planet South India.

Recommended for everyone (it’s always useful to have a guidebook on hand), especially travellers who won’t be booking in advance.

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I-escape

I-escape is a wonderful website that focuses on hip hideaways and boutique places to stay. If you are looking for somewhere stylish and special to stay in Kerala then this is the website for you. The Kerala section has lots of practical travel information (when to go, activities, places to visit, travel tips) and lists over 30 places to stay sorted by area and budget. Everywhere from homestays to palaces are covered, and there’s even an eco-friendly houseboat run by electric motor.

The best feature of i-escape is the detailed reviews of every place to stay. These are the most comprehensive accommodation reviews I have seen on the web, and give you a complete picture of the hotel. They include an unbiased breakdown of the pros and cons of each hotel; photos and detailed descriptions of the rooms, food and activities; links to other reviews and of course prices. You can even book your stay through i-escape.

There are some amazing places to stay in Kerala reviewed on i-escape. The only downside is that prices are high for India.

Recommended for honeymooners, and travellers with a larger budget looking for a unique and stylish place to stay.

TripAdvisor

TripAdvisor is the most popular accommodation review site on the web. It currently lists over 1000 accommodation options in Kerala from family-run homestays to huge resorts and international chains. The reviews are submitted by readers so are unbiased, although it can get confusing when people have vastly different views on the same place. Each listing is rated out of five, so you can sort by the top rated hotels.

I prefer looking in the B&Bs/Inns and Specialty Lodging sections to find smaller and cheaper places to stay in Kerala. The Hotels section is where you’ll find the bigger and more expensive resorts and hotels.

TripAdvisor also features a forum where you can ask questions.

Recommended for everyone. It covers all accommodation options.

India Mike

India Mike is a very helpful India travel forum where you can read or post questions on all aspects of travel in India. To find accommodation in Kerala you can search the forum, post a question on the Kerala branch of the forum, or read reviews of over 300 hotels listed in the Kerala Hotels section.

Recommended for everyone, especially travellers looking for budget accommodation.

Lonely Planet

The Lonely Planet website features the useful Thorn Tree forum where you can search and read old posts, and ask questions on the India branch.

You can also search for accommodation in the Hotels section on the website. Not all of the listings have been reviewed by Lonely Planet writers, and you need to search by city,  so you can’t browse all Kerala listings.

Recommended for budget travellers.

If you use one or more of these websites you’ll be able to find some great places to stay in Kerala. In Part 2 of How to Find Great Kerala Accommodation I’ll be recommending more useful resources for finding Kerala homestays and hotels, including an interesting option for free accommodation.

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Chinese Fishing Nets, Fort Kochi

Homestays are a wonderful way to explore Kerala, as you get the opportunity to meet local people and eat authentic home-cooked food, all for reasonable prices. Beena Homestay in Fort Kochi is a favourite of mine, and is highly recommended for those looking for good value accommodation in Cochin. Here are the reasons why:

1) Great central location – It’s located at a walkable distance (10-15 minutes) from all the main sites in Fort Kochi, but is far enough away from the touristy heart of the city to feel authentic.

2) Wonderful friendly family – Beena and her family are very warm, welcoming and make you feel part of the family. They are genuinely interested in meeting travellers from around the world, and go out of their way to help you. They can assist you in booking a range of activities or transport to your next destination.

3) Delicious food - As always in Keralan homestays the food is a highlight. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price and is delicous and very generously portioned (your plate will keep getting filled!). The family aren’t vegetarians but did a very good job of providing us with a range of vegetable dishes.

4) Comfortable rooms – The rooms are simple, but comfortable and clean, and come with ensuite bathrooms and a choice of fan or a/c. Beena is a health inspector and rooms are suitably immaculate.

5) Sociable atmosphere – As meals are eaten communally with the other guests it’s a great way to meet other people. The family are always around for a chat too.

The homestay is very popular with everyone who stays there and has 5 out of 5 reviews on Trip Advisor.

How to Book
You can book your stay at Beena Homestay by visiting their website www.homestaykochi.com which has full details. Or you can email beenahomestay@yahoo.co.in or call +91 484 2215458.

Prices range from Rs 600-800 (£8-10 or US$13-17) for a double fan room, to Rs 1500 (£20 or $32) for an a/c double.

If you are interested in staying in homestays in Kerala you can also see our review of Community Greenpalm Homes in the Kerala backwaters.

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The Rooms

Community Greenpalm Homes

When we arrived at the homestay we were expecting a very basic home without any creature comforts. In fact Thomas has strived to make the homestay as comfortable as possible for his guests. His sister’s home is the main house that the guests stay in, which is next door to the family house.

The guest house is large and recently built. Although the guest rooms aren’t luxurious, they are very comfortable with a choice of fan or air conditioning, and attached modern bathrooms. Guests eat together in the large kitchen and are free to relax in the living room or on the verandah.

Sometimes if the main homestay is booked up Thomas will arrange for you to stay with another family in the village. This may be less comfortable, but possibly even more authentic.

Getting There
The most interesting way to reach Community Greenpalm Homes is by local ferry. You can take this small, rather noisy boat from Alleppey for a chance to travel with the locals and see the great backwater views. Chennamkary is only 10km away but it takes just over an hour to reach the homestay. Thomas will give you detailed instructions on where to get off when you book. It’s a short walk to the homestay from the small jetty.

If you don’t fancy the ferry then you can take a bus or taxi from Alleppey then a short canoe ride across the river. When we left the homestay we picked up a bus to Kumily (with a change in Kuttayam), which meant we didn’t have to backtrack to Alleppey.

How Long to Stay
I recommend staying for a minimum of three nights to get a real feel for the place and to have the chance to take part in a range of activities. We planned on staying for two nights but kept extending our stay and eventually left after five. We would have loved to stay longer – a week would be perfect if you really need some relaxation time. Be warned that most people stay longer than planned!

Costs
Rooms cost from 1,750 INR – 2,500 INR for a fan room (approx UK£22-32 or US$37-53), and 2,750 INR– 3,250 INR (UK£35-42 or US$58-70) for a room with a/c. This is for a double room on full board with three meals a day included.

Guided activities cost from 100 INR – 300 INR  per person (UK£1.28-3.85 or US$2-6).

How to book
It is necessary to book in advance, although we only called a few days before we wanted to stay. You can contact Thomas by emailing community.greenpalms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com or by calling +91 949 5557675 or +91 477 2724497. You can also visit their new website.

Further Reading
If you would like to read more reviews of Community Greenpalm Homes then you could have a look at these travel blogs:

Jason was staying at the homestay at the same time as us. He writes beautifully about his experiences there on his TravBuddy Blog.

Qui001 writes about their stay at Greenpalm Homes in March 2009 on their World Nomads Blog.Have you stayed at this homestay? Or do you have another favourite? Leave a comment and tell us about your experiences.

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Kerala Paddy Fields near Greenpalm Homes

Community Greenpalm Homes is a wonderful Kerala homestay located on the peaceful backwater island of Chennamkary, near Alleppey. In Part 1 of my review I gave the reasons why this is my favourite homestay in India, including the beautiful, peaceful location, the fantastic host Thomas, the chance to meet local people, the range of activities on offer, the chance to relax, and the amazing home-cooked food.

During our stay at the homestay we had the opportunity to take part in a wide range of activities, and still have plenty of time to relax and soak up the atmosphere. In Part 2 of the Community Greenpalm Homes review I’ll be talking more about the wonderful activities on offer.

Walks

Following Thomas along the Kerala backwater canal paths

We took many walks around the village accompanied by Thomas and they were always a fascinating insight into village life.

The backwaters are flat so the walking is easy, and Thomas usually took us out in the early morning or evening to avoid the heat. Walks ranged from 1-3 hours, but Thomas is really flexible depending on your needs and interests.

On each walk we always saw something new and interesting – bright pink hibiscus bushes; purple banana flowers; the rare Asian Paradise Flycatcher bird; paper stars outside homes lit up for Christmas (even by Hindu families); wooden canoes overflowing with coconuts; women in colourful saris irrigating the rice paddy fields or washing clothes in the river.

Local man in Kerala backwaters

It was always a pleasure to walk along the dirt paths under the green palms, next to narrow canals and rivers, and through the paddy fields.

A highlight was the local people we met along the way. Thomas knows everyone in the village, so walks were a leisurely affair punctuated with chats with elderly men in lungis (sarongs) or giggling, smiling children.  Frequent stops were made at chai shacks for spicy sweet tea at bargain prices.

Bike rides
Our bike trip was another highlight and a great way to explore. By bike you can reach further afield to areas that rarely see tourists, and are very friendly when they do. The old Indian bikes aren’t the easiest to pedal on, but it’s definitely worth the effort, and at least there are no hills. You do have to carry them across the bridges though!

Canoe trips

Kerala backwaters canoe

Our most magical experience at Greenpalm Homes was the canoe trip we took with Thomas, Jason (another guest at the homestay) and Thomas’s two Keralan friends celebrating their second anniversary.  We set out at sunset gliding peacefully through the backwaters before making our way to the local toddy shop.

This insalubrious-looking building is more like a prison with separate cubicles, bars on the windows and painted brick walls. We had a wonderful time though, sampling the local brew toddy, made from fermented coconut flower sap. The murky drink smells awful, but doesn’t taste too bad, especially when accompanied by the bar snack of choice- chilli omelette.

The local toddy shop

The night just got better as we made our way back to the homestay under a star lit sky accompanied by the beautiful voices of Thomas and our two oarsmen singing traditional folk songs. A perfect end to an amazing evening.

Other activities
Other activities on offer include motorboat trips, or visits to local Christian Churches (Thomas’s family is Syrian Christian). Thomas is very accommodating and will help you make the most of your visit, whatever your interests.

In the next Kerala India Travel post the final part of my favourite Kerala homestay review  focuses on the practical details of costs and how to get there. In the meantime, if you’d like to book a stay you can email Thomas at community.greenpalms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com.

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Our best experiences in Kerala (and in India) were had when staying in homestays. Our favourite place of all is Community Greenpalm Homes (aka Thomas’s Homestay), located on a backwater island only 10km from Alleppey, but it feels a world away. I haven’t heard a bad word said by anyone who has stayed here. Everyone comes away enchanted by Thomas and his friendly family, fantastic food, great range of backwater activities, and the unique insight into Keralan culture.

Over the next few articles (yes, this will take a while!) I’ll be giving the reasons why I highly recommend a stay at this magical place.

1) Beautiful, peaceful location

The Kerala Backwaters

Community Greenpalm Homes is located on Chennamkary, an island in the Keralan backwaters 10km from Alleppey. It’s a gorgeous, lush place of green palms, tropical fruit trees, glistening rice paddy fields, rivers and canals. There are no cars or even roads, and you feel blissfully far from everything. It’s wonderfully peaceful, and very easy to fall into the slow pace of life. This place is the ultimate balm for road (and India) weary travellers.

2) Fantastic Host
What really makes Greenpalm Homes stand out is the erudite, gentle host Thomas, and his welcoming family. Thomas is an incredibly knowledgeable guy who is the perfect guide to the backwaters. He is very well respected, knows everyone in the village, and knows a lot about the history and culture of the area.

3) Chance to meet local people
As well as meeting Thomas and his family, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to meet the local villagers. Thomas will take you out on leisurely trips around the village, stopping to chat with people along the way or have a cup of chai at the open air tea shop/shacks. People are very friendly, and the further into the backwaters you get, the less they are accustomed to seeing foreigners.

4) Range of activities
You could easily do nothing at the homestay but chill out (see point 4 below), but there are plenty of interesting activities on offer, and I would really recommend you do as many as possible. Thomas will take you out on a variety of trips in the early morning or evening (to avoid the heat), and they are always interesting, and often tailored to your interests.

Our favourite activities were a range of walks around the village, the longer bike ride to a neighbouring village, and the sunset canoe ride to the local toddy shop. Motor boat rides are also available to explore further afield, and you can visit one of the many Christian churches on Sundays . Read more about our favourite activities in Part 2.

Locals in the Backwaters of Kerala

5) Ultimate Relaxation
There are lots of activities on offer at the homestay, but during the hot part of the day it is very easy to pass the time just lazing on the verandah or under a palm tree gazing at the river, or chatting to the family or other travellers. This is in fact part of the attraction of the place – it’s the ultimate in relaxation.

You definitely need a few days to slow down to the pace of life here, but once you do it is very hard to leave (warning: we extended our stay three times!). We felt completely at peace here.

6) Amazing home-cooked food
Mmmm! The food is a definite highlight at Greenpalm Homes. Thomas’s mother and wife cook wonderful fresh Keralan food three times a day that is served at a large communal table with other travellers, and sometimes Thomas. The rice is from their own paddy fields, and the vegetables are home-grown.

Breakfast is particularly interesting for those of us only used to toast and cereal. Highlights included puttu (steamed rice cakes) with curry, neyyappam (rice pancake filled with coconut and jaggery and cooked in banana leaf), and fried banana.

Lunch is the main meal and will involve a huge range of vegetable and curry dishes, rice, chutneys and popadoms. It’s great for vegetarians, although fish and meat is available. The portions are huge and you are always encouraged to keep eating! Dinners are similar but lighter.

Meals are long, relaxing and sociable – it’s a great way to meet other travellers.

In Part 2 of the Community Greenpalm Homes Review I focus on our favourite activities, while Part 3 looks at the practicalities.

In the meantime, if you’d like to book a stay you can email Thomas at community.greenpalms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com or visit their website.

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