Local Kids in the Kerala Backwaters

This week´s post is an interview with my mum Sheila McNeaney. My parents recently returned from a trip to Kerala in February 2010, so I thought it would be useful to share their up to date tips and advice on planning an itinerary for a short six day trip to Kerala. Hopefully this will help you plan your own short (or long) trip to Kerala.

What was your itinerary in Kerala?

After visiting Goa we took the overnight train to Alleppey and spent 5 nights in Kerala: 2 nights at Green Palms Homes homestay near Alleppey, 2 nights in Kumily (near Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary) and 1 night in Cochin.

How did you get around and did it feel too rushed?

Our trip didn´t feel too rushed. We initially wanted to include Munnar as well but that would have been too much. It helped that we travelled by hired car and driver which saved on travel time. We didn´t hire a driver for the whole time: we took a taxi from Alleppey train station to the homestay and then we just arranged a taxi with our accommodation to take us to the next destination when we were ready. This made things really flexible. Taxis are very easy to organise.

How much did it cost to hire a car and driver?

The taxi from Alleppey train station to the Green Palms homestay cost 400 rupees, and then we had to take a short canoe trip across the river to reach the house.

Thomas arranged an an a/c car to take us from the homestay to Kumily. It took 4 hours with one stop and cost 2200 rupees. It was a lovely drive with stunning views and unusually for India the driver was very sensible and safe!

The taxi from Kumily – Ernakulum/Cochin cost 3100 rupees and took 4.5 hours.

What was your favourite place in Kerala?

Green Palms homestay. The house was full but despite the number of guests we really enjoyed the peace and quiet there. The family were so friendly and welcoming, and it had such a relaxed atmosphere. We found the rooms comfortable and the home-cooked food was delicious.

One of our favourite experiences was taking a trip on a small motor boat out into the backwaters. It was so peaceful watching the world go by, and we stopped at the perfect spot to watch the sunset. Another great trip was the 6.30am bird watching walk where we spotted many unusual birds.

We really enjoyed our time in Kumily too though. We did a one hour boat trip on the lake which was lovely, although we didn´t see any big animals and at 450 rupees it was a bit overpriced. We also enjoyed an interesting trip to a tea factory and plantation.

What was your favourite hotel?

For comfort and facilities I would say Chrissie´s Hotel in Kumily. It doesn´t look like much from the front but when you go inside you come to a lovely garden at the back. It´s a tranquil place on a quiet street off the main road although it´s still very central to town.

The rooms were large with a comfy bed and a balcony with fantastic views of the forest. You have to be careful not to leave anything on the balcony though or the monkeys might get it! They have their own rooftop restaurant which is also very good with delicious Italian food. We thought the room was good value at about 2000 rupees a night.

Why didn´t you take a houseboat trip?

The main reason was time but we felt we got to see the backwaters well enough by staying at the homestay and taking a small boat trip around the smaller canals and lake. We saw many houseboats in the backwaters. There are now around 1000 in the Alleppey area and Thomas at the homestay told us that they are causing a lot of pollution problems to the local people.

How was Keralan food?

The food was lovely – it´s not too spicy, uses fresh ingredients and there were lots of options. It can be difficult to buy beer though as only big hotels have a licence to sell it. If you ask around though you can usually find a place to buy it.

What was your worst experience?

We didn´t have any bad experiences in Kerala but the overnight train journey from Goa to Kerala wasn´t any fun. We accidently booked the sleeper class instead of AC2 (which had been recommended to us as the best class to travel in), and it wasn´t very comfortable at all. It was crowded, noisy, the toilets were awful, there were no blankets so it got chilly at night (you must bring your own in sleeper class), and as there was no a/c it got very hot during the day. It was cheap though – only 375 rupees per person.

On the way back to Goa thankfully we took a flight via Bangalore with Indian Airlines and this cost 6400 rupees per person.

Would you recommend Kerala to others? Do you have any tips for people planning a trip there?

Yes we´d definitely recommend Kerala to friends, in fact I already have. My main advice would be to have plenty of time – don´t think that you can see it all in a few days. It´s such a relaxing place that it´s good to take your time and enjoy it. We would have liked to spend more time in Kerala, especially to explore Fort Cochin.

I woud also say that although houseboats are nice they aren´t very good for the environment and are an expensive way to see the backwaters. We´d recommend staying at a homestay and exploring on a small boat or canoe.

Finally, if you are looking for a comfortable place to stay, don´t rule out accommodation listed in the Budget section of the guidebooks – some of them in Kumily looked really nice.

If you´ve recently returned from a trip to Kerala and would like to be interviewed for this site and share your tips then please get in touch.

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Houseboat Jam at Alleppey

Alleppey is one of the most popular destinations in Kerala. It is the houseboat hub and a good place to set off and explore the Kerala backwaters. However the number of houseboats here has grown over the last few years and houseboat traffic jams are now a common sight. This takes away somewhat from your relaxing houseboat experience, and also causes a lot of water pollution in the local area.

A Kerala houseboat trip can be a wonderful experience though, so as part of our ongoing Quiet Alternatives Series here are some other places you could try for your houseboat journey.

Kollam

Kollam is an easy place to rent a houseboat, but sees far fewer visitors than Alleppey. We took an overnight houseboat trip from Kollam-Alleppey and the backwaters near Kollam were definitely quieter and more unspoilt. We also liked Kollam as an authentically Indian town without the hassle and touts that you find in more touristy places.

To hire a houseboat just head down to the jetty and ask at the tourist office. They’ll arrange a houseboat for you. We arranged ours the day before, but you could even head down early in the morning on the day you want to leave, as the boats don’t leave until around 11am. Read our Essential Guide to Kerala Houseboats for more on what to expect on your journey.

Kollam is also a good place to stop between the southern beaches of Kovalam and Varkala, and Cochin. It’s only a 30 minute train ride from Varkala. Read our Keralan coast itinerary in our 1 Week Kerala Suggested Itineraries post for an idea of how to fit Kollam into your trip.

Valiyaparamba Backwaters

If you really want to avoid the crowds then you need to leave the southern backwaters behind and head to Northern Kerala. The houseboat scene is far less developed in the Valiyaparamba backwaters, so you’ll have a much more tranquil experience.

The backwaters are 50km north of Kannur (a great place to stop for a quiet beach break). There aren’t many houseboat operators so you’ll need to be more organised than in Alleppey, but Bekal Boat Stay offers cruises on traditional rice barges. It’s more expensive than Alleppey but the trade off is beautiful backwaters all to yourself.Have you experienced a quiet houseboat trip? Leave a comment and tell us about it.

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Festival in Thrissur, Kerala. Photo by Spisharam.

Who doesn’t love elephants? If you love them as much as I do and would like to see some on your trip to Kerala, here are the best places to find them.

If you’d like to spot elephants in Kerala in the wild you’ll need to visit one of the national parks. Of course, sightings aren’t guaranteed, but if you do get lucky it’ll be an exciting experience.

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

The most popular wildlife sanctuary in Kerala has a good population of elephants. A boat trip is a popular way to explore but you’ll have a better chance of seeing elephants if you go for a guided trek into the forest. The longer the trek, the better your chances. Read my Guide to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary for full details.

Wayanad

The Wayanad region in Northern Kerala is much less visited than Periyar and has two wildlife sanctuaries with good chances of spotting elephants. Read my post on Quiet Alternatives to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary for full details.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

Chinnar is easily reached from Munnar, but also receives far less visitors than Periyar. The watch tower is a great place to look out for elephants and you can even sleep out overnight. Chinnar is another one of my Quiet Alternatives to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, so have a read for more information.

If you don’t fancy venturing into one of the parks, or if you didn’t have any luck finding the gentle beasts, don’t despair! There are some great options for guaranteed close up interaction with elephants.

Kodanad Elephant Training Centre

Kodanad is an elephant rescue and training centre that is a popular daytrip from Cochin. It’s located 50km away so you’ll need to arrange a trip through your hotel or tourist office, or hire a taxi. If you arrive by 8am you’ll have the opportunity to help wash the elephants, and you can also have an elephant ride. If you are hiring a car to take you from Cochin to Munnar this is a good place to stop on the way.

Guruvayur

Guruvayur is an interesting off the beaten track place to visit in Kerala. It’s a bustling pilgrim town 25km from Thrissur that is well known for its temple, one of the richest and most important in the state. Although non-Hindus aren’t allowed inside the temple you can still enjoy the activities that take place outside during one of the many festivals held there.

The largest festival is Ulsavam during February or March. There are a variety of music and dance performances, as well as an elephant race and procession.

Even if you don’t visit during a festival you can still see elephants at the Punnathur Kotta Elephant Sanctuary 3kms away. Elephants are trained there for temple activities, and visitors are always welcome.

Thrissur

Highly decorated elephants are an essential part of temple festivals in Kerala. Thrissur is another less obvious place to visit in Kerala that has plenty of temples and festivals, so it’s a great place to spot elephants. The annual Puram Festival, the biggest festival in all of Kerala, takes place here in May and features elephant processions, drum orchestras and lots of traditional arts. You can get here by bus or train from Cochin in a few hours.

Festivals take place in Kerala temples throughout the year so keep your eyes open, ask around and you’re bound to come across some elephants.Where is your favourite place to see elephants in Kerala? Leave a comment and let us know

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India Mike -I am pretty sure you can find the answer to any Indian travel question on this extensive site. It features articles, hotel reviews, journals, and most importantly an active forum where you’ll find experts to answer any questions so have.

Lonely Planet - Another huge travel site. My favourite sections are the Thorn Tree Forum where you can ask questions, the shop where you can download the ‘getting started’ chapters from all their guidebooks for free (or pay a small fee for individual chapters), and the Destination Guides.

The Planet D – A travel blog written by Dave and Deb “Canada’s Adventure Couple”. They have spent the last few months travelling around India including Rajasthan, Mumbai, Hampi, Goa and Kerala. Deb writes very honestly about their experiences including the traveller’s fatigue they faced in Rajasthan.

Breathe Dream Go – Mariellen is a travel writer, yogi and Indiaphile who is passionate about sharing the beauty of India’s culture and wisdom. She has lots of great info for women travelling alone in India.

Matador Network – This isn’t India specific but has a huge range of interesting travel articles including plenty about India.

About.com India Travel Guide – A range of articles to help you plan your trip.

Mahindra Homestays Blog – This homestay booking site writes regularly about attractions to visit in India, including Kerala.

You can also read my recommended resources for finding Kerala accommodation for more useful websites.What websites do you use? Let us know

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Wayanad

We featured the beautiful region of Wayanad as a quiet alternative to Munnar for a peaceful retreat in the hills. It also contains two wildlife sanctuaries- Muthanga and Tholpetty. Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Northern section of Wayanad and is one of the best parks in South India to spot elephants in the wild. You’ll also have a good chance of seeing bison, deer, boar and monkeys. Tigers are present but rarely spotted, as in all of India’s parks.

How to get here:From Kannur it’s a 2.5 hour bus journey to Mananthavady, the nearest town to Tholpetty, from where you can pick up a bus or taxi for the 45 minute journey to the park entrance. You can also connect to Mananthavady from Kalpetta (and onward to Calicut) or Sultanbatheri, where you can take the bus to Ooty (4 hours) or Mysore (3 hours).

Where to stay: Pachyderm Palace is a basic guesthouse in a great location just outside of the sanctuary. The best room is the treehouse surrounded by forest. The food is delicious and the welcome is friendly, but don’t expect luxury. Two safaris a day are included in the price.

How to explore: You have the option of two hour jeep safaris in the morning or evening, or 5 hour guided hikes in the morning. It’s a good idea to try both options. These can be arranged at the park entrance, or through your hotel.

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary is on the border with Tamil Nadu, 60km from Munnar along a winding mountain road. It’s much less visited than Munnar but still offers the chance to see a range of wildlife. It’s one of the best spots in Kerala for bird watching with 225 species. You are also likely to see the famous grizzled giant squirrels, as well as elephants, deer, and monkeys. You can enjoy wonderful views from the watch tower or trek through the park.

How to get here: Take the 1.5 hour bus from Munnar heading to Coimbatore. The sanctuary is 10km past Marayoor.

Where to stay: You can stay inside the forest in a treehouse or tribal huts. Contact the Forest Information Centre in Munnar to book ( Tel: 04865-231587, Email: roywlw@eravikulam.org).

How to explore: Treks are arranged by the Forest Centre with local guides.

Silent Valley National Park

Silent Valley National Park is not very well known but the pristine rainforest features over 100 different varieties of orchids, 211 bird species and 128 types of butterfly. The moist evergreen woodland is located 75km from Palakkad, so could be combined with a trip to Nelliampathy , our quiet alternative to Munnar. As well as beautiful flora you could see the rare lion-tailed macaque, gaur, sloth bears and even tigers.

How to get here: Take the bus from Palakkad.

Where to stay: In Mukkali there is a basic national park guesthouse near the ticket office. Tel: 04924 253225.

How to explore: You need to pick up a permit from the National Park office in Mannarkkad, 32km from the entrance or in Mukkali. You can hire a jeep or go on guided walks.

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Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Photo by mtkopone

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the largest and most visited wildlife reserves in India, and one of Kerala’s most popular destinations. It’s located in the Cardamom Hills section of the Western Ghats at an altitude of 900m-1800m. Temperatures are cooler than on the coast, ranging from 15 – 30 degrees celsius, so bring warm and waterproof clothes.

Although you are extremely unlikely to see tigers, there’s a good chance of coming across elephants, sambar, gaur, mongoose, wild boar and plenty of birds. The best time to visit is the dry season from December to April when animals are drawn to drink at the lakeside.

Kumily is the nearest village to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and is the main base. It’s located a few kilometres north of the sanctuary. Thekkady is the name  used for either the entire area or the park entrance.

What To Do

Kumily is a tourist town and every hotel can arrange tours, as can the many tour agents in town. The main tourist area of Periyar is the lake which is surrounded by forest.

Tours outside the park – You can arrange tours of spice plantations, tea factories and Elephant Junction for elephant rides.

Boat Ride – The most common way of visiting the park is on the KTDC boat trips on the lake. These can get crowded and the engine noise prevents you seeing much wildlife. The best chance of seeing wildlife is on the 7am trip.

Trek – A range of treks are available with local tribal guides from 3 hours to 3 days. The forest department organises these tours and they need to be booked though the Eco Tourism Centre on Ambadi Junction.

Bamboo Rafting – This alternative boat trip is also bookable at the Eco Tourism Centre and has a much better chance of seeing wildlife as the rafts are paddled rather than motor-driven. They hold 4-5 people and some walking is also included.

Jeep Safari – All hotels and agents can book half or full day jeep safaris into the jungle bordering the park (the park itself is protected).

Where to Stay

Most people stay in Kumily as there is only limited accommodation in the park itself, and it is more expensive. I recommend staying on the edge of town where it’s quieter and you have views into the forest, but are still in walking distance of the shops and restaurants.

Budget: Meadow View Inn has great views into the forest from its simple stilted huts. It’s located on the edge of town near Coffee Inn, a popular guest house on Thekkady Rd. The Jungle Cafe next door has tasty food including dosa and uttappam for breakfast.

Midrange: Pepper County Homestay is a friendly homestay just outside of Kumily amongst spice plantations.

Luxury: Cardamom Club has  seven large deluxe rooms in a quiet location five minutes drive from Kumily on the way to the Sanctuary with views overlooking the forest.

How To Get Here

Kumily can be reached by bus or car from Kochi (6 hours), Kottayam (4 hours) and Munnar (4 hours). If you are coming from Alleppey you can change buses in Kottayam. These times are for buses, but you should always allow extra time as there can be delays on the winding mountain roads. The views on the way are beautiful though. If you hire a car and driver the journey time can be reduced, and you can stop to take photos along the way.

You can also reach Kumily by bus from Madurai (5.5 hours) in Tamil Nadu.

All buses arrive in Kumily from where you can take a rickshaw to the park entrance.

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is a popular tourist destination so in my next post I’ll be continuing with the Quiet Alternatives series with some off the beaten track alternatives for wildlife viewing.

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I wrote a guest post for Mahindra Homestays on 5 Reasons Why Kerala is the Ideal Introduction to India which outlines why I think Kerala is the best place to start your Indian travels. Its compact size makes it easy to travel around, it’s very relaxed, the people are friendly, the weather is always warm and there is a diverse range of attractions on offer.

Ishtika, Kerala’s social media journal featured Kerala India Travel on their site calling it “an awesome Kerala travel blog”. Aravind says, “It was such a pleasant surprise to find a bunch of nicely written articles about Kerala and travel among hundreds of blunt, keyword stuffed and promotional tourism articles and guides.” Thanks Aravind for your kind comments! Ishtika featured a number of their favourite posts including Top 10 Reasons to Visit Kerala, The Essential Guide to Kerala Houseboats, Guide to Munnar, Quiet Alternatives to Munnar and Which Kerala Beach is Right For You.

Update

On a personal note I have some big changes coming up in the next week. My partner Simon and I have decided to leave the UK to travel indefinitely. We’ll be starting in South America, but plan to return to India at some point. I will still be continuing with weekly posts at Kerala India Travel, and we’ll also be blogging about our travels at Never Ending Voyage. We’ll be looking at a variety of ways to make an income as we travel, and Simon will continue with his freelance web design.

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Cooking lessons at a Kerala homestay

If you’re planning your Kerala trip and thinking about where you’re going to stay, take a good look at the Kerala homestay option.

Homestays are the preferred choice of travelers that want comfort and quality, but who also want to avoid the often sterile and detached experience of chain hotels and package holidays.

Staying in family homes has become a popular and rewarding choice for thousands of India travelers and it’s not difficult to understand why. While Kerala has glorious beaches, few visit just to lie under the sun. They are looking for a bigger experience, whether that includes cruising the backwaters, discovering night-fishing, exploring the spice plantations of Munnar, tracking exotic wildlife in Wayanad or simply expanding their understanding of a different culture.

They want a colourful and interesting holiday that they will remember for ever.

This makes homestays ideal, because they provide a range of complimentary benefits: warm hospitality from attentive, knowledgeable hosts and their staff; delicious home-cooked local cuisine, often with impromptu cooking lessons; assistance and advice on getting around and day trips; fascinating insights into Kerala family life that you would be unlikely to get in a hotel, and much more.

Mahindra Homestays, set up in 2008 and now with over a hundred homestays across India – including a Kerala homestay portfolio totaling 56 – are of particular appeal because they guarantee a consistent standard across all their homes. Inspectors regularly audit each homestay to ensure the highest standards of comfort, cleanliness, safety and even ‘originality’ are being kept.

Here’s a sample of their Kerala homestay offering, all available to book online:

Kodianthara is an elegant and characterful six bedroom homestay set on a rubber plantation in sleepy Kumarakom. Its owners, the Crispins, also have a delightful Kumarakom boat house available for hire – saving guests the hassles and uncertainties of arranging a houseboat trip through agents or touts. The home is 150-years-old and designed according to Vaastu Shastra, the Hindu system of architecture. A sunny courtyard, relaxing gazebo and lofty communal area are particular features. The family are eco-aware and make the most of their location, using solar power to warm the water and canoes to travel the watery roads. Fishing in the Kerala backwaters, open-air meals in the sun or moonlight, swimming, bird watching, cooking lessons and Ayurvedic massage are all options.

Orion is an romantic homestay in the centre of Fort Cochin, run by a down-to-earth modern young Indian couple. The property is newly constructed but in a traditional Keralite architectural style. It has four spotless bedrooms, all with private balconies, looking over the city. A lush green lawn, communal areas and efficient staff on hand to look after the needs of guests make this a popular choice. Ayurvedic massages can be arranged.

Spice Garden is a charming wood-built homestay in Munnar, with gorgeous views of the surrounding green mountains. Spice Garden was originally an award-winning pepper plantation, but five years ago owner George ventured into the hospitality industry and didn’t look back. He’s created a home for peace and inspiration; it’s no surprise that it attracts acclaimed writers and Bollywood directors. It’s hugged by lush tea estates, flowering plants, spices and fruit trees.

For more information about Mahindra Homestays and to book, visit their main site. Also take a look at their blog on real India travel, follow their Twitter and check them out on Facebook where they run regular competitions and share travel tips.

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A Keralan Feast

Keralan food is delicious and one of the highlights of visiting the region. The spicy but subtle flavours are very different from the heavy, oily curries served in Indian restaurants abroad. We found Keralan food to be the most delicious in all of India, featuring fresh and tasty ingredients.

Rice is the staple of Keralan meals, served with a range of vegetable and fish dishes. Coconut and spices are always present including the locally grown black pepper, cloves, ginger, cardamom and cinnamon.

Vegetarians in Kerala

Keralan food is great for vegetarians with a wide range of vegetable and lentil dishes always available. Indians understand the vegetarianism concept better than anywhere else in the world so you only need to say ‘veg’ to know that your meal will be safe. Most restaurants are signposted ‘veg’ or ‘non-veg’ in English so it’s easy to find a place to eat. If you aren’t vegetarian then fish is widely eaten, and meat is available.

Where to Eat

The best place to sample authentic Keralan food is homestays where you’ll be treated to huge portions of amazing home-cooked food, often included in the room price. You’ll also find tasty and cheap food in local ‘working-men’ diners and canteens. These places have basic décor, but are usually very hygienic, and serve unlimited portions of authentic meals often for less than 50p ($0.80). Even smarter restaurants rarely cost more than a few pounds ($3) for a meal, but I think the food is actually tastier in the more basic places.

Eating with Your Hands

In Kerala, as in the rest of India, it is normal to eat with your hands. This can take some practice, but it’s part of the fun of learning about a new cuisine and culture, and Indians will appreciate your efforts. Make sure you eat with your right hand only, as the left hand is used to clean yourself after using the toilet. Use the fingers to mix the curries into the rice and create a ball. Your thumb is used to push the ball into your mouth. You can also use bread to scoop up the food, which is easier when starting out, although trying to tear the bread with just your right hand can be tricky.

Restaurants will always have a sink available in the main dining area where you can wash your hands before and after the meal.

Breakfast Dishes

Kerala has some delicious traditional breakfast dishes that are far more interesting than toast and cereal. You’ll have to get used to eating curry in the morning, but it’s definitely worth it. Some of these dishes can be served as snacks or dinner as well. Here are some tasty dishes to try:

Appam - Also known as hoppers these thick pancakes are made from rice flour and served with a masala sauce.

Neyyappam – Sweet rice pancakes filled with coconut and jaggery (unrefined sugar)  and cooked in a banana leaf. This rustic snack is best found in a Keralan home, so ask your homestay about them.

Puttu - Rice powder and grated coconut are combined and steamed in a cylindrical bamboo or metal holder.

Idli – Circular steamed rice cakes that are popular throughout South India. They are usually served with chutney and sambar (a spicy vegetable broth), and sometimes accompanied by vada.

Vada – A common snack throughout South India, this is a savoury doughnut or disk-shaped snack made from lentils and deep-fried. You’ll often find them on street food stands or in train stations.

Masala Dosa – Dosas aren’t native to Kerala, but are common in South India and are delicious for breakfast or dinner. These large crunchy crepes are made from rice and lentils and filled with a spicy potato mixture. They are usually served with sambar and coconut chutney.

Chai – Breakfast is usually accompanied by India’s delicious, spicy, milky tea .

Keralan Meals

Lunch is the main meal of the day and usually features a mound of rice with lots of different spiced dishes (vegetable, lentil or fish). In a local diner the main (sometimes only) meal on offer with be the thali.  Rice and 4-8 different dishes will be served on a banana leaf or metal tray alongside pickles, curd and pappadoms. The cheap price includes unlimited food, and a server will keep coming around to top up your plate.

Moillee is the famous Keralan fish curry made with coconut, green chilli, ginger and curry leaves.

Dinner is similar but usually lighter and one of the breakfast snacks may be eaten.

Sadya

Sadya is a vegetarian banquet (basically a large thali) served on spacial occasions and during the Onam Festival in August. Rice and up to 24 different dishes are served on a banana leaf. Dishes include Aviyal, a thick mix of vegetables, curd and coconut.

Cooking Lessons

If you really enjoy Keralan food then you can learn how to cook it yourself. Homestays often offer cooking lessons and can be a lot of fun.

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Although you won’t compromise on amazing views or experiences, these alternative places may be more difficult to reach and the standard of accommodation lower. It’ll be worth it though when you have the place to yourself.

Nelliampathy

Nelliampathy Mountains. Photo by Kjrajesh

Nelliampathy is a much quieter alternative to the hill station Munnar. It sees far fewer tourists but still has amazing views of the lush green hills, a cool climate, tea and spice plantations to visit, beautiful waterfalls and great hiking. The winding mountain road to get here is one of the most scenic journies in Kerala.  Although there isn’t a huge range of accommodation, there are some lovely homestays and prices are much lower than in Munnar.

How to get here: Nelliampathy is located 75km south of Palakkad from where you can get a bus via Nemmara. From Cochin you can take a bus to Thrissur and onwards to Nemmara. If you have limited time consider hiring a car and driver.

Where to stay: Options include Ciscilia Heritage with simple rooms in a beautiful, secluded plantation setting; or the more upmarket Whistling Thrush Bungalow. You can also ask at the NTPC tourist office in the town for details of homestays.

Here’s a detailed trip report from a visitor to Nelliampathy on India Mike.

Wayanad

Wayanad Tea Plantations. Photo by aztonyx

The hill district of Wayanad is one of the most beautiful regions of Kerala. The area is spread over an altitude of 750m – 2100m with varied landscapes including rice paddies, grasslands, spice and tea plantations, and jungle-covered mountains. The main attraction of Wayanad is the Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary but it’s also a great destination for travellers looking for a peaceful hill retreat to enjoy magnificient views and hikes, without Munnar’s crowds.

You can base yourself in the main town Kalpetta, or the even quieter hill stations Vythiri or Lakkidi. Sights to visit include plantations, waterfalls, prehistoric caves, a hike up 2100m Chembra Peak or plenty of gentler hikes.

How to get here: Kalpetta is a 70km two hour bus ride east of Kozhikode (Calicut) in Northern Kerala. You can also reach here from Kannur, Ooty or Mysore.

Where to stay: There are plenty of upmarket resorts and quality homestays in the area, often in quite isolated areas. Two good choices are Ente Veedu a small homestay on a spectacular plantation and Stream Valley Cottages, a peaceful resort with secluded cottages in a beautiful setting.

The next in the Quiet Alternatives Series looks at off the beaten track alternatives to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Subscribe for free updates by RSS , email or facebook so you don’t miss any future posts.

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