A Guide to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Photo by mtkopone

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the largest and most visited wildlife reserves in India, and one of Kerala’s most popular destinations. It’s located in the Cardamom Hills section of the Western Ghats at an altitude of 900m-1800m. Temperatures are cooler than on the coast, ranging from 15 – 30 degrees celsius, so bring warm and waterproof clothes.

Although you are extremely unlikely to see tigers, there’s a good chance of coming across elephants, sambar, gaur, mongoose, wild boar and plenty of birds. The best time to visit is the dry season from December to April when animals are drawn to drink at the lakeside.

Kumily is the nearest village to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary and is the main base. It’s located a few kilometres north of the sanctuary. Thekkady is the name  used for either the entire area or the park entrance.

What To Do

Kumily is a tourist town and every hotel can arrange tours, as can the many tour agents in town. The main tourist area of Periyar is the lake which is surrounded by forest.

Tours outside the park – You can arrange tours of spice plantations, tea factories and Elephant Junction for elephant rides.

Boat Ride – The most common way of visiting the park is on the KTDC boat trips on the lake. These can get crowded and the engine noise prevents you seeing much wildlife. The best chance of seeing wildlife is on the 7am trip.

Trek – A range of treks are available with local tribal guides from 3 hours to 3 days. The forest department organises these tours and they need to be booked though the Eco Tourism Centre on Ambadi Junction.

Bamboo Rafting – This alternative boat trip is also bookable at the Eco Tourism Centre and has a much better chance of seeing wildlife as the rafts are paddled rather than motor-driven. They hold 4-5 people and some walking is also included.

Jeep Safari – All hotels and agents can book half or full day jeep safaris into the jungle bordering the park (the park itself is protected).

Where to Stay

Most people stay in Kumily as there is only limited accommodation in the park itself, and it is more expensive. I recommend staying on the edge of town where it’s quieter and you have views into the forest, but are still in walking distance of the shops and restaurants.

Budget: Meadow View Inn has great views into the forest from its simple stilted huts. It’s located on the edge of town near Coffee Inn, a popular guest house on Thekkady Rd. The Jungle Cafe next door has tasty food including dosa and uttappam for breakfast.

Midrange: Pepper County Homestay is a friendly homestay just outside of Kumily amongst spice plantations.

Luxury: Cardamom Club has  seven large deluxe rooms in a quiet location five minutes drive from Kumily on the way to the Sanctuary with views overlooking the forest.

How To Get Here

Kumily can be reached by bus or car from Kochi (6 hours), Kottayam (4 hours) and Munnar (4 hours). If you are coming from Alleppey you can change buses in Kottayam. These times are for buses, but you should always allow extra time as there can be delays on the winding mountain roads. The views on the way are beautiful though. If you hire a car and driver the journey time can be reduced, and you can stop to take photos along the way.

You can also reach Kumily by bus from Madurai (5.5 hours) in Tamil Nadu.

All buses arrive in Kumily from where you can take a rickshaw to the park entrance.

Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary is a popular tourist destination so in my next post I’ll be continuing with the Quiet Alternatives series with some off the beaten track alternatives for wildlife viewing.

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Kerala India Travel On The Web & Update

In the past few weeks Kerala India Travel has appeared on a number of other websites.

I wrote a guest post for Mahindra Homestays on 5 Reasons Why Kerala is the Ideal Introduction to India which outlines why I think Kerala is the best place to start your Indian travels. Its compact size makes it easy to travel around, it’s very relaxed, the people are friendly, the weather is always warm and there is a diverse range of attractions on offer.

Ishtika, Kerala’s social media journal featured Kerala India Travel on their site calling it “an awesome Kerala travel blog”. Aravind says, “It was such a pleasant surprise to find a bunch of nicely written articles about Kerala and travel among hundreds of blunt, keyword stuffed and promotional tourism articles and guides.” Thanks Aravind for your kind comments! Ishtika featured a number of their favourite posts including Top 10 Reasons to Visit Kerala, The Essential Guide to Kerala Houseboats, Guide to Munnar, Quiet Alternatives to Munnar and Which Kerala Beach is Right For You.

Update

On a personal note I have some big changes coming up in the next week. My partner Simon and I have decided to leave the UK to travel indefinitely. We’ll be starting in South America, but plan to return to India at some point. I will still be continuing with weekly posts at Kerala India Travel, and we’ll also be blogging about our travels at Never Ending Voyage. We’ll be looking at a variety of ways to make an income as we travel, and Simon will continue with his freelance web design.

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Why homestays make a great accommodation choice

This is a guest post from Dominic Sawyer at Mahindra Homestays.

Kerala Recipes, Alleppey

Cooking lessons at a Kerala homestay

If you’re planning your Kerala trip and thinking about where you’re going to stay, take a good look at the Kerala homestay option.

Homestays are the preferred choice of travelers that want comfort and quality, but who also want to avoid the often sterile and detached experience of chain hotels and package holidays.

Staying in family homes has become a popular and rewarding choice for thousands of India travelers and it’s not difficult to understand why. While Kerala has glorious beaches, few visit just to lie under the sun. They are looking for a bigger experience, whether that includes cruising the backwaters, discovering night-fishing, exploring the spice plantations of Munnar, tracking exotic wildlife in Wayanad or simply expanding their understanding of a different culture.

They want a colourful and interesting holiday that they will remember for ever.

This makes homestays ideal, because they provide a range of complimentary benefits: warm hospitality from attentive, knowledgeable hosts and their staff; delicious home-cooked local cuisine, often with impromptu cooking lessons; assistance and advice on getting around and day trips; fascinating insights into Kerala family life that you would be unlikely to get in a hotel, and much more.

Mahindra Homestays, set up in 2008 and now with over a hundred homestays across India – including a Kerala homestay portfolio totaling 56 – are of particular appeal because they guarantee a consistent standard across all their homes. Inspectors regularly audit each homestay to ensure the highest standards of comfort, cleanliness, safety and even ‘originality’ are being kept.

Here’s a sample of their Kerala homestay offering, all available to book online:

Kodianthara is an elegant and characterful six bedroom homestay set on a rubber plantation in sleepy Kumarakom. Its owners, the Crispins, also have a delightful Kumarakom boat house available for hire – saving guests the hassles and uncertainties of arranging a houseboat trip through agents or touts. The home is 150-years-old and designed according to Vaastu Shastra, the Hindu system of architecture. A sunny courtyard, relaxing gazebo and lofty communal area are particular features. The family are eco-aware and make the most of their location, using solar power to warm the water and canoes to travel the watery roads. Fishing in the Kerala backwaters, open-air meals in the sun or moonlight, swimming, bird watching, cooking lessons and Ayurvedic massage are all options.

Orion is an romantic homestay in the centre of Fort Cochin, run by a down-to-earth modern young Indian couple. The property is newly constructed but in a traditional Keralite architectural style. It has four spotless bedrooms, all with private balconies, looking over the city. A lush green lawn, communal areas and efficient staff on hand to look after the needs of guests make this a popular choice. Ayurvedic massages can be arranged.

Spice Garden is a charming wood-built homestay in Munnar, with gorgeous views of the surrounding green mountains. Spice Garden was originally an award-winning pepper plantation, but five years ago owner George ventured into the hospitality industry and didn’t look back. He’s created a home for peace and inspiration; it’s no surprise that it attracts acclaimed writers and Bollywood directors. It’s hugged by lush tea estates, flowering plants, spices and fruit trees.

For more information about Mahindra Homestays and to book, visit their main site. Also take a look at their blog on real India travel, follow their Twitter and check them out on Facebook where they run regular competitions and share travel tips.

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A Guide to Keralan Food

A Keralan Feast

A Keralan Feast

Keralan food is delicious and one of the highlights of visiting the region. The spicy but subtle flavours are very different from the heavy, oily curries served in Indian restaurants abroad. We found Keralan food to be the most delicious in all of India, featuring fresh and tasty ingredients.

Rice is the staple of Keralan meals, served with a range of vegetable and fish dishes. Coconut and spices are always present including the locally grown black pepper, cloves, ginger, cardamom and cinnamon.

Vegetarians in Kerala

Keralan food is great for vegetarians with a wide range of vegetable and lentil dishes always available. Indians understand the vegetarianism concept better than anywhere else in the world so you only need to say ‘veg’ to know that your meal will be safe. Most restaurants are signposted ‘veg’ or ‘non-veg’ in English so it’s easy to find a place to eat. If you aren’t vegetarian then fish is widely eaten, and meat is available.

Where to Eat

The best place to sample authentic Keralan food is homestays where you’ll be treated to huge portions of amazing home-cooked food, often included in the room price. You’ll also find tasty and cheap food in local ‘working-men’ diners and canteens. These places have basic décor, but are usually very hygienic, and serve unlimited portions of authentic meals often for less than 50p ($0.80). Even smarter restaurants rarely cost more than a few pounds ($3) for a meal, but I think the food is actually tastier in the more basic places.

Eating with Your Hands

In Kerala, as in the rest of India, it is normal to eat with your hands. This can take some practice, but it’s part of the fun of learning about a new cuisine and culture, and Indians will appreciate your efforts. Make sure you eat with your right hand only, as the left hand is used to clean yourself after using the toilet. Use the fingers to mix the curries into the rice and create a ball. Your thumb is used to push the ball into your mouth. You can also use bread to scoop up the food, which is easier when starting out, although trying to tear the bread with just your right hand can be tricky.

Restaurants will always have a sink available in the main dining area where you can wash your hands before and after the meal.

Breakfast Dishes

Kerala has some delicious traditional breakfast dishes that are far more interesting than toast and cereal. You’ll have to get used to eating curry in the morning, but it’s definitely worth it. Some of these dishes can be served as snacks or dinner as well. Here are some tasty dishes to try:

Appam - Also known as hoppers these thick pancakes are made from rice flour and served with a masala sauce.

Neyyappam – Sweet rice pancakes filled with coconut and jaggery (unrefined sugar)  and cooked in a banana leaf. This rustic snack is best found in a Keralan home, so ask your homestay about them.

Puttu - Rice powder and grated coconut are combined and steamed in a cylindrical bamboo or metal holder.

Idli – Circular steamed rice cakes that are popular throughout South India. They are usually served with chutney and sambar (a spicy vegetable broth), and sometimes accompanied by vada.

Vada – A common snack throughout South India, this is a savoury doughnut or disk-shaped snack made from lentils and deep-fried. You’ll often find them on street food stands or in train stations.

Masala Dosa – Dosas aren’t native to Kerala, but are common in South India and are delicious for breakfast or dinner. These large crunchy crepes are made from rice and lentils and filled with a spicy potato mixture. They are usually served with sambar and coconut chutney.

Chai – Breakfast is usually accompanied by India’s delicious, spicy, milky tea .

Keralan Meals

Lunch is the main meal of the day and usually features a mound of rice with lots of different spiced dishes (vegetable, lentil or fish). In a local diner the main (sometimes only) meal on offer with be the thali.  Rice and 4-8 different dishes will be served on a banana leaf or metal tray alongside pickles, curd and pappadoms. The cheap price includes unlimited food, and a server will keep coming around to top up your plate.

Moillee is the famous Keralan fish curry made with coconut, green chilli, ginger and curry leaves.

Dinner is similar but usually lighter and one of the breakfast snacks may be eaten.

Sadya

Sadya is a vegetarian banquet (basically a large thali) served on spacial occasions and during the Onam Festival in August. Rice and up to 24 different dishes are served on a banana leaf. Dishes include Aviyal, a thick mix of vegetables, curd and coconut.

Cooking Lessons

If you really enjoy Keralan food then you can learn how to cook it yourself. Homestays often offer cooking lessons and can be a lot of fun.

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Quiet Alternatives to Munnar, Kerala

The most visited destinations in Kerala, such as Cochin, Alleppey, Kovalam and Munnar are popular for a reason, but they do get crowded with other tourists. If you are feeling adventurous and would like to see another side of Kerala, this new series Quiet Alternatives highlights off the beaten track places to visit in Kerala. The first in the series looks at alternatives to Munnar, Kerala a beautiful but often crowded hill station.

Although you won’t compromise on amazing views or experiences, these alternative places may be more difficult to reach and the standard of accommodation lower. It’ll be worth it though when you have the place to yourself.

Nelliampathy

Nelliampathy Mountains. Photo by Kjrajesh

Nelliampathy Mountains. Photo by Kjrajesh

Nelliampathy is a much quieter alternative to the hill station Munnar. It sees far fewer tourists but still has amazing views of the lush green hills, a cool climate, tea and spice plantations to visit, beautiful waterfalls and great hiking. The winding mountain road to get here is one of the most scenic journies in Kerala.  Although there isn’t a huge range of accommodation, there are some lovely homestays and prices are much lower than in Munnar.

How to get here: Nelliampathy is located 75km south of Palakkad from where you can get a bus via Nemmara. From Cochin you can take a bus to Thrissur and onwards to Nemmara. If you have limited time consider hiring a car and driver.

Where to stay: Options include Ciscilia Heritage with simple rooms in a beautiful, secluded plantation setting; or the more upmarket Whistling Thrush Bungalow. You can also ask at the NTPC tourist office in the town for details of homestays.

Here’s a detailed trip report from a visitor to Nelliampathy on India Mike.

Wayanad

Wayanad Tea Plantations. Photo by @aztonyx

Wayanad Tea Plantations. Photo by aztonyx

The hill district of Wayanad is one of the most beautiful regions of Kerala. The area is spread over an altitude of 750m – 2100m with varied landscapes including rice paddies, grasslands, spice and tea plantations, and jungle-covered mountains. The main attraction of Wayanad is the Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary but it’s also a great destination for travellers looking for a peaceful hill retreat to enjoy magnificient views and hikes, without Munnar’s crowds.

You can base yourself in the main town Kalpetta, or the even quieter hill stations Vythiri or Lakkidi. Sights to visit include plantations, waterfalls, prehistoric caves, a hike up 2100m Chembra Peak or plenty of gentler hikes.

How to get here: Kalpetta is a 70km two hour bus ride east of Kozhikode (Calicut) in Northern Kerala. You can also reach here from Kannur, Ooty or Mysore.

Where to stay: There are plenty of upmarket resorts and quality homestays in the area, often in quite isolated areas. Two good choices are Ente Veedu a small homestay on a spectacular plantation and Stream Valley Cottages, a peaceful resort with secluded cottages in a beautiful setting.

The next in the Quiet Alternatives Series looks at off the beaten track alternatives to Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. Subscribe for free updates by RSS , email or facebook so you don’t miss any future posts.

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