Christmas in Kerala

Kerala Christmas Tree

Kerala Christmas Tree

Kerala is one of the best places in India to celebrate Christmas. About 20% of the state’s population is Christian, and people of other religions may also join in with the celebrations. Signs of the festive season are evident in Kerala for weeks leading up to Christmas Day.

One of the loveliest Keralan Christmas traditions (also found in Goa) is hanging a Christmas star outside homes and shops. They come in a range of colours and patterns, and a lighted lamp is placed inside at night for a magical effect. The beautiful stars are found everywhere in Kerala, even outside the homes of non-Christian families.

Most Christian families will also have a crib and a Christmas tree outside their homes. The photo above is taken of the amazing and unique Christmas tree and crib display created by the family at Community Greenpalm Homes, a homestay in the Keralan backwaters. We had never seen such a magnificient and inventive Christmas display, using the local palms and plenty of colourful decorations.

As everywhere in the world,  Christmas  in Kerala is celebrated with mass on Christmas Eve in the churches, and lots of delicious food on the day itself.

I’ll be taking a blogging break next week to focus on my own festive celebrations and to work on my upcoming Guide to Kerala Houseboats ebook, which I’m hoping to release early next year. Merry Christmas everyone!

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Kerala Guidebook Review: Lonely Planet India

Lonely Planet IndiaThis is the final part of our Kerala Guidebook Review series. I have recommended The Rough Guide to Kerala and Lonely Planet South India, but if you are touring the whole of India then the newly released Lonely Planet India is a great choice.

Contents

The Lonely Planet India is a brick of a book. Its 1244 pages weigh in at 1kg/2 pounds, but are packed full of practical information covering every region in the country.

The structure and layout is the same as the Lonely Planet South India, so see my review of this for more details. As in the other guide the Highlights, Getting Started and Itineraries sections provide a great overview of India and help to plan a trip to this huge country. The main differences are the lack of colour food section (although the food section is quite detailed), and language phrases are only listed in Hindi and Tamil.

Each state is covered in its own chapter. The Lonely Planet South India guide has slightly more info on the Southern states, but not a great deal more. As usual the Lonely Planet guides are very strong on budget accommodation listings, transport information and maps.

Pros

  • The guide covers the whole of India
  • It was recently released in September 2009 so is the most up to date India guidebook on the market
  • Lots of accurate and easy to use maps
  • The suggested itineraries section is very useful for planning a trip
  • Helpful transport information. I believe Lonely Planet provide the best advice on how to get from A to B.
  • Activities section is great for planning a trip around an interest such as bird-watching, kayaking or yoga.

Cons

  • This is a huge and heavy book. I recommend doing what we did and cut out the chapters of the states you won’t be visiting. We also cut out the state we were in so that we didn’t have to carry around the whole book for daytrips.
  • Only Hindi and Tamil are included in the languages section
  • Lonely Planet is the most popular guide with travellers in India, so you could end up following the crowds, especially with the accommodation recommendations.

So which guidebook is right for your trip to Kerala and India? If you are just visiting Kerala go for the Rough Guide to Kerala for the most specific cultural and practical information in a very compact book. The Lonely Planet South India is a great choice if you are travelling further afield, and if you are venturing all over the country then you won’t go wrong with the Lonely Planet India. Just do your back a favour and cut out the pages you don’t need!

Buy the Lonely Planet India Now

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Kerala Guidebook Review: Lonely Planet South India

LPSIndia_In the last Kerala India Travel post we reviewed The Rough Guide to Kerala, a detailed but compact guide for those just visiting the state. However if you are touring other destinations in South India then Lonely Planet South India is a great choice. The latest version of this guide has just been released (September 2009) so is packed full of up to date practical information.

Contents

The Lonely Planet South India is a 576 page guide that is surprisingly compact and lightweight, considering it covers such a large region. It features information on Mumbai, Goa, Maharashtra, Karnataka, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, and the Andaman & Nicobar Islands. It includes:

South India Highlights – a run down of the top ten highlights in the region with large colour photos. Three of the highlights are in Kerala (Kerala Backwaters at Number 1, Fort Cochin and Kannur). This is a nice visual introduction to the region.

Getting Started – I like this useful section that focuses on the key practicalities you need to plan your trip. It introduces you to South India and deals with when to go, costs, key items to pack and includes Top Picks for books, festivals and trips.

Events Calendar – featuring major national festivals by month. State specific festivals aren’t included here, but there are festival lists in each state chapter.

Itineraries – I find the suggested itineraries section in Lonely Planet guides one of the most useful features when first planning a trip. Especially with a region as large as South India it can be overwhelming deciding where to go and working out what is possible in a certain period of time. This section shows suggested routes on a map with a description and recommended time frame.

You get an idea of what the most popular attractions are, as well as suggestions on how to avoid the crowds in the Road Less Travelled itineraries. The Tailored Trips routes are great for focusing on an area of interest – in this case temples, ashrams, festivals and beaches. I’m not suggesting you slavishly follow these routes but they are a great starting point for planning a trip around your own interests.

History & Culture – These sections are essential for improving your understanding of South India. The detailed culture section covers lifestyle, religion, women in India, arts and sport.

Food & Drink – Another vital chapter focusing on South Indian food that features a lovely full colour section with photos and a helpful glossary.

Environment & Activities -The useful activities chapter highlights the best places for certain activities such as elephant rides or birdwatching. This is helpful for choosing an itinerary based on an interest. It includes a holistic and spiritual activities section telling you where to go for ashrams, yoga and Ayurveda etc.

Main Guide – The main guide is divided up by state. Each state chapter starts with an introduction, map, key facts (such as when to go, language etc) and a list of festivals. It lists 9 festivals for Kerala. Information on destinations covers practical information, sights & activities, sleeping, eating, drinking, entertainment, getting there & away, and getting around.

Directory, Transport & Health – The detailed practical information that applies to the whole region is listed at the back of the guide. Here you’ll discover what to expect from Indian toilets, scams to look out for, how to send a parcel or book a train and a huge amount of other invaluable information.

Language – The language section includes key phrases in all major South Indian language- Tamil, Kannada, Konkani, Malayalam (for Kerala), Marathi and Telugu.

Green Index List – A list of organisations featured in the guide that are committed to sustainability.

Pros

  • The latest version of Lonely Planet South India has just been released, so the information is very up to date.
  • Lots of accurate and easy to use maps.
  • The suggested itineraries section is very helpful for planning a trip.
  • Accurate and detailed transport information. I believe Lonely Planet provide the best advice on how to get from A to B.
  • Compact and not too heavy (especially compared with the huge Lonely Planet India).
  • Useful colour food and drink section for making sense of the range of delicious food on offer.
  • Activities section for planning a trip around an interest.
  • Green Index List helps you find sustainable organisations.
  • Language section features all six major South Indian languages (including Malayalam for Kerala which is not included in Lonely Planet India).

Cons

  • It doesn’t cover Keralan specific culture and destinations in as much detail as The Rough Guide to Kerala.
  • Lonely Planet is the most popular guide with travellers in India, so you could end up following the crowds, especially with the accommodation recommendations.

Summary

Lonely Planet South India is a comprehensive, detailed guide to the region packed with useful information.

I personally like the Lonely Planet format, but if you are a Rough Guide fan you might also want to consider the Rough Guide to South India. However the latest version was published in October 2007 so is two years older than the Lonely Planet South India.

There are only six more pages of Kerala information in Lonely Planet South India than there is in the Lonely Planet India, so if you are travelling all over the country it’s worth getting this complete guide to the country. Read my review of the Lonely Planet India guidebook here.

Buy the Lonely Planet South India Now.

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Kerala Guidebook Review: The Rough Guide to Kerala

RGKeralaThis is the first in a new series reviewing the best Kerala guidebooks.

The Rough Guide to Kerala is the only major guidebook that covers Kerala only and is ideal for travellers who are just visiting Kerala, and not the rest of India. This comprehensive guide is suitable for all independent travellers, whether on a shoestring budget or in search of comfortable resorts.  It covers all the major attractions as well as more off the beaten track destinations.

Contents

The Rough Guide to Kerala is a compact size with 351 pages. It includes:

  • A Colour Introductory Section – This includes a good introduction to Kerala, a colour map, an overview of ‘where to go’, and a useful ‘when to go’ section featuring average temperature and rainfall charts.  The ’19 Things Not to Miss’ feature includes colour photos and alongside the most obvious sights, lists interesting aspects of Keralan culture such as Kalarippayattu, an acrobatic martial art, and Sadya, a banana leaf feast. This section is a really useful overview and gives a good sense of what there is to see and do in Kerala.
  • Basics Section – Here you’ll find all the important practical information you’ll need to plan your trip. It includes information on transport (getting there and around), types of accommodation on offer, health, sports and outdoor activities, culture and etiquette (very important for India), shopping (what are the best souvenirs to buy), travelling with kids, and travel essentials such as costs and changing money.I particularly like the comprehensive festivals list which details 48 Keralan festivals that take place throughout the year, and the detailed guide to delicious Keralan food and drink. This features a section on Keralan spices, and a list of ’10 Great Places to Eat Authentic Keralan Food’.
  • The Main Guide – This is divided up into Southern, Central and Northern Kerala. Each section includes an introduction, a map, a list of highlights and some history for that area. The guides are detailed and for each place cover transport, accommodation, sights, eating and practical listings for hospitals, internet cafes etc.

    • Both popular and smaller off the beaten track destinations are covered. The accommodation reviews cover the full range of options from rock bottom budget to luxury resorts. There is a colour section on the backwaters, but mostly the guide section is text with the occasional black and white photo.

  • Contexts – At the back of The Rough Guide to Kerala there is detailed information on the history, religion, sacred arts and wildlife of Kerala, which is very helpful for learning more about the state. There is also a comprehensive book list for further reading.
  • Language – The final section features basic Malayalam phrases and a helpful food glossary.

Pros

  • This is a comprehensive guide to Kerala with a huge amount of background information to Keralan culture, as well as detailed listings for many destinations.
  • It’s a compact size that is easy to carry around.
  • The accommodation reviews cover all budgets from shoestring to luxury.
  • Lots of practical information to help you plan your trip such as how to book trains, where to get your laundry done and how much your trip will cost.
  • A detailed guide to Keralan food – a very important part of your trip!
  • It’s the only Kerala only guide on the market, so you don’t have to carry around unnecessary information if you are only visiting this state.

Cons

  • The current edition of The Rough Guide to Kerala was published in October 2007, so some of the information will be out of date, especially prices.
  • The accommodation prices aren’t listed, just a price range. However given that these prices go out of date quickly this may be an advantage.
  • I don’t find the maps as detailed or accurate as the ones published in the Lonely Planet Guides.

Summary

The Rough Guide to Kerala is the best guide on the market for people wanting to travel independently to only Kerala, and not other parts of India, or if you are planning to spend a significant period of time there. It is suitable for all travel budgets whether you are travelling by car and driver or bus, and staying in basic guesthouses or luxury resorts.

In future posts I review my other favourite guidebooks Lonely Planet South India and Lonely Planet India, which are excellent choices if you are touring other parts of the country as well as Kerala.

Buy The Rough Guide to Kerala now.

What is your favourite guidebook to Kerala? Leave a comment and let us know.

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Beena Homestay Review – Fort Kochi, Kerala

Chinese Fishing Nets, Fort Kochi

Chinese Fishing Nets, Fort Kochi

Homestays are a wonderful way to explore Kerala, as you get the opportunity to meet local people and eat authentic home-cooked food, all for reasonable prices. Beena Homestay in Fort Kochi is a favourite of mine, and is highly recommended for those looking for good value accommodation in Cochin. Here are the reasons why:

1) Great central location – It’s located at a walkable distance (10-15 minutes) from all the main sites in Fort Kochi, but is far enough away from the touristy heart of the city to feel authentic.

2) Wonderful friendly family – Beena and her family are very warm, welcoming and make you feel part of the family. They are genuinely interested in meeting travellers from around the world, and go out of their way to help you. They can assist you in booking a range of activities or transport to your next destination.

3) Delicious food – As always in Keralan homestays the food is a highlight. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price and is delicous and very generously portioned (your plate will keep getting filled!). The family aren’t vegetarians but did a very good job of providing us with a range of vegetable dishes.

4) Comfortable rooms – The rooms are simple, but comfortable and clean, and come with ensuite bathrooms and a choice of fan or a/c. Beena is a health inspector and rooms are suitably immaculate.

5) Sociable atmosphere – As meals are eaten communally with the other guests it’s a great way to meet other people. The family are always around for a chat too.

The homestay is very popular with everyone who stays there and has 5 out of 5 reviews on Trip Advisor.

How to Book
You can book your stay at Beena Homestay by visiting their website www.homestaykochi.com which has full details. Or you can email beenahomestay@yahoo.co.in or call +91 484 2215458.

Prices range from Rs 600-800 (£8-10 or US$13-17) for a double fan room, to Rs 1500 (£20 or $32) for an a/c double.

If you are interested in staying in homestays in Kerala you can also see our review of Community Greenpalm Homes in the Kerala backwaters.

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The Best Homestay in Kerala – Community Greenpalm Homes Review (Part 3)

Community Greenpalm Homes is my favourite Kerala homestay. In Part 1 of my review I gave my reasons why, including the wonderful location, friendly host, relaxing atmosphere and delicious food. In Part 2 I focused on the fantastic range of activities on offer, such as village walks, bike rides and canoe trips. In this third and final part I’ll be detailing more practical information.

The Rooms

Community Greenpalm Homes

Community Greenpalm Homes

When we arrived at the homestay we were expecting a very basic home without any creature comforts. In fact Thomas has strived to make the homestay as comfortable as possible for his guests. His sister’s home is the main house that the guests stay in, which is next door to the family house.

The guest house is large and recently built. Although the guest rooms aren’t luxurious, they are very comfortable with a choice of fan or air conditioning, and attached modern bathrooms. Guests eat together in the large kitchen and are free to relax in the living room or on the verandah.

Sometimes if the main homestay is booked up Thomas will arrange for you to stay with another family in the village. This may be less comfortable, but possibly even more authentic.

Getting There
The most interesting way to reach Community Greenpalm Homes is by local ferry. You can take this small, rather noisy boat from Alleppey for a chance to travel with the locals and see the great backwater views. Chennamkary is only 10km away but it takes just over an hour to reach the homestay. Thomas will give you detailed instructions on where to get off when you book. It’s a short walk to the homestay from the small jetty.

If you don’t fancy the ferry then you can take a bus or taxi from Alleppey then a short canoe ride across the river. When we left the homestay we picked up a bus to Kumily (with a change in Kuttayam), which meant we didn’t have to backtrack to Alleppey.

How Long to Stay
I recommend staying for a minimum of three nights to get a real feel for the place and to have the chance to take part in a range of activities. We planned on staying for two nights but kept extending our stay and eventually left after five. We would have loved to stay longer – a week would be perfect if you really need some relaxation time. Be warned that most people stay longer than planned!

Costs
Rooms cost from 1,750 INR – 2,500 INR for a fan room (approx UK£22-32 or US$37-53), and 2,750 INR– 3,250 INR (UK£35-42 or US$58-70) for a room with a/c. This is for a double room on full board with three meals a day included.

Guided activities cost from 100 INR – 300 INR  per person (UK£1.28-3.85 or US$2-6).

How to book
It is necessary to book in advance, although we only called a few days before we wanted to stay. You can contact Thomas by emailing community.greenpalms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com or by calling +91 949 5557675 or +91 477 2724497. You can also visit their new website.

Further Reading
If you would like to read more reviews of Community Greenpalm Homes then you could have a look at these travel blogs:

Jason was staying at the homestay at the same time as us. He writes beautifully about his experiences there on his TravBuddy Blog.

Qui001 writes about their stay at Greenpalm Homes in March 2009 on their World Nomads Blog.

Have you stayed at this homestay? Or do you have another favourite? Leave a comment and tell us about your experiences.

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The Best Homestay in Kerala – Community Greenpalm Homes Review (Part 2)

Kerala Paddy Fields near Greenpalm Homes

Kerala Paddy Fields near Greenpalm Homes

Community Greenpalm Homes is a wonderful Kerala homestay located on the peaceful backwater island of Chennamkary, near Alleppey. In Part 1 of my review I gave the reasons why this is my favourite homestay in India, including the beautiful, peaceful location, the fantastic host Thomas, the chance to meet local people, the range of activities on offer, the chance to relax, and the amazing home-cooked food.

During our stay at the homestay we had the opportunity to take part in a wide range of activities, and still have plenty of time to relax and soak up the atmosphere. In Part 2 of the Community Greenpalm Homes review I’ll be talking more about the wonderful activities on offer.

Walks

Following Thomas along the Kerala backwater canal paths

Following Thomas along the Kerala backwater canal paths

We took many walks around the village accompanied by Thomas and they were always a fascinating insight into village life.

The backwaters are flat so the walking is easy, and Thomas usually took us out in the early morning or evening to avoid the heat. Walks ranged from 1-3 hours, but Thomas is really flexible depending on your needs and interests.

On each walk we always saw something new and interesting – bright pink hibiscus bushes; purple banana flowers; the rare Asian Paradise Flycatcher bird; paper stars outside homes lit up for Christmas (even by Hindu families); wooden canoes overflowing with coconuts; women in colourful saris irrigating the rice paddy fields or washing clothes in the river.

Local man in Kerala backwaters

Local man in Kerala backwaters

It was always a pleasure to walk along the dirt paths under the green palms, next to narrow canals and rivers, and through the paddy fields.

A highlight was the local people we met along the way. Thomas knows everyone in the village, so walks were a leisurely affair punctuated with chats with elderly men in lungis (sarongs) or giggling, smiling children.  Frequent stops were made at chai shacks for spicy sweet tea at bargain prices.

Bike rides
Our bike trip was another highlight and a great way to explore. By bike you can reach further afield to areas that rarely see tourists, and are very friendly when they do. The old Indian bikes aren’t the easiest to pedal on, but it’s definitely worth the effort, and at least there are no hills. You do have to carry them across the bridges though!

Canoe trips

Kerala backwaters canoe

Kerala backwaters canoe

Our most magical experience at Greenpalm Homes was the canoe trip we took with Thomas, Jason (another guest at the homestay) and Thomas’s two Keralan friends celebrating their second anniversary.  We set out at sunset gliding peacefully through the backwaters before making our way to the local toddy shop.

This insalubrious-looking building is more like a prison with separate cubicles, bars on the windows and painted brick walls. We had a wonderful time though, sampling the local brew toddy, made from fermented coconut flower sap. The murky drink smells awful, but doesn’t taste too bad, especially when accompanied by the bar snack of choice- chilli omelette.

The local toddy shop

The local toddy shop

The night just got better as we made our way back to the homestay under a star lit sky accompanied by the beautiful voices of Thomas and our two oarsmen singing traditional folk songs. A perfect end to an amazing evening.

Other activities
Other activities on offer include motorboat trips, or visits to local Christian Churches (Thomas’s family is Syrian Christian). Thomas is very accommodating and will help you make the most of your visit, whatever your interests.

In the next Kerala India Travel post the final part of my favourite Kerala homestay review  focuses on the practical details of costs and how to get there. In the meantime, if you’d like to book a stay you can email Thomas at community.greenpalms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com.

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